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Tweed patterns, eg Herringbone or Windowpane

by Dr Nick Fiddes

Tweed's different patterns have a long history and rich heritage, dating back to the 19th century in Scotland. The patterns were developed by traditional weavers, who drew inspiration from the landscape, nature and their cultural heritage. Tweed patterns have evolved over time, with new patterns being developed and old patterns being revived, but they still retain their distinctive character and charm.

Tweed patterns have been used in a wide range of clothing and home decor items, from jackets, suits and trousers to cushions, curtains and upholstery. The unique texture and appearance of tweed patterns give a classic and timeless look to any item, making it a popular choice for those who value style and quality.

Today, tweed patterns are still woven using traditional methods and equipment, preserving the craftsmanship and heritage that have been passed down through generations of weavers. Each pattern has its own unique style and character, and has become an iconic part of the tweed tradition.

The filters in our Fabric Finder let you select tweeds of any pattern. So here's a quick guide to the main tweed patterns:

Plain Twill (Unpatterned) Tweeds

Twill tweed is characterised by its diagonal pattern, which is created by the way the yarn is woven into the fabric. This pattern can be either large or small, and may be made up of different colours or shades of the same colour. Twill is a simple weave with a characteristic diagonal pattern running throughout it, which may be either obvious or so subtle that the fabric appears plain.

Tarbert Plain Twill Blue 24310 Harris Tweed


Overcheck Twill Tweeds

Overcheck tweed is a variation on the check pattern, featuring an additional layer of larger, contrasting checks over the smaller ones. It's a traditional twill with a large checked design overlaid in a contrasting colour.

See our Overcheck Twill Tweed fabrics & products

Glenroyal Overcheck Twill Green 42001 Highland Tweed


Herringbone Tweeds

Herringbone tweed is characterised by its distinctive V-shaped pattern, which resembles the bones of a herring. This pattern is created by alternating rows of diagonal lines that run in opposite directions. A herringbone pattern consists of columns of slanted parallel lines. The direction of the slant alternates column by column to create ‘V’ shapes. A typical thin herringbone might use a pattern of four threads alternating direction with the next four threads (4×4) but larger sizes of 6×6 or 8×8 are common, sometimes even up to as large as 12×12.

See our Plain Herringbone Tweed fabrics & products

Hartwist Plain Herringbone Green 32005 Highland Tweed


Windowpane or Estate (Overcheck Herringbone) Tweeds

Windowpane tweed features a pattern of thin, straight lines that intersect to create a windowpane effect. This pattern is often woven in light colours and is popular for use in lightweight summer jackets.

This may be designed as a traditional herringbone pattern overlaid with a basic check. These are often known as Estate Tweeds, as each Highland estate would typically commission its own distinctive version for its gamekeepers and for when hunting, with colours tones chosen to match the estate’s local landscape and vegetation, for camouflage.

See our Overcheck Herringbone Tweed fabrics & products

Reiver Overcheck Herringbone Poacher Highland Tweed


Barleycorn Tweeds

Barleycorn tweed features a pattern of small, diamond-shaped motifs that resemble the grains of barley. This pattern is often woven in earthy tones and is a popular choice for use in winter jackets and coats. Barleycorn Tweeds have a prominent flecked pattern, giving it a richly coarse appearance where the complex colours merge into a single shade from a distance.

Barleycorn Harris Tweed


Striped Tweeds

Striped tweeds include a distinctive vertical line or lines to create visible stripes of various sizes.

See our Striped Tweed fabrics & products

Brown 32035 Highland Tweed

Brown 32035 Highland Tweed


Houndstooth (or Dogtooth) Tweeds

Houndstooth tweed is characterised by its distinctive zig-zag pattern, which resembles the teeth of a hound. This pattern is created by alternating rows of small, jagged lines in opposite directions. This is a type of large broken checked pattern using pointed shapes instead of squares. Said to resemble the jagged back teeth of a dog. ‘Houndstooth’ describes the pattern in a larger size, ‘Dogtooth’ when it is smaller.

See our Houndstooth Tweed fabrics & products

Hartwist Houndstooth Green 32020 Highland Tweed


Checked Tweeds

Check tweed features a pattern of squares or rectangles that are woven into the fabric. This pattern can be either large or small, and may be made up of different colours or shades of the same colour. It's a pattern of horizontal and vertical lines that create small squares. The characteristic small check may also be enhanced by a larger overcheck in a third colour.

See our Checked Tweed fabrics & products

Glen Tilt Checked Blue Glen Morar Highland Tweed


Prince of Wales Tweeds

Popularised by its namesake before he became Edward VII, but first developed by the Countess of Seafield in the valley of Glenurquhart in the early 19th century, the Prince of Wales (or Glen Check, or Glen Urquhart check) is a traditional tweed pattern characterised by a crossing pattern of irregular checks, perhaps including a dogtooth within. Other famous wearers include Pee-wee Herman, US President Ronald Reagan, and Cary Grant who wore an iconic grey Glen plaid suit in North By Northwest (1959).

Prince of Wales plaid Tweed


Tartan Tweeds

Any tartan can also be woven in tweed fabric. The characteristic uneven texture of Harris Tweed in particular wonderfully evokes authentic old tartans.

Gunn Tartan in Harris Tweed


Plaid Tweeds

Plaid-style tweeds feature a pattern of horizontal and vertical lines, not unlike a tartan.

See our Plaid Tweed fabrics & products

Braveheart Plaid Authentic Islay Tweed

Other patterns:

Bird's Eye: Bird's Eye tweed features a pattern of small, circular shapes that resemble the eyes of a bird. This pattern is often woven in neutral colours, and is a popular choice for use in suits and jackets.

Donegal: Donegal tweed features a speckled appearance, created by the addition of small flecks of different coloured yarns into the fabric. This pattern is often associated with the Donegal region of Ireland.

Basketweave: Basketweave tweed features a pattern of interlocking squares, which creates a basket-like effect. This pattern is often woven in neutral colours and is a popular choice for use in heavier-weight tweed fabrics.



Categories Varieties of tweed fabric
Tags harris tweed tweed patterns