Why are some fabrics said to have a ‘kilting selvedge’?

A properly made traditional kilt should ideally use a fabric woven with a Kilting Selvedge. This means that instead of being manufactured on the high-speed looms that produce cheaper bulk materials, the tartan is woven on a shuttle loom. This slower process gives the kilt its distinctive cleanly cut bottom edge, without the visible fringe of the cheaper process using a securing thread, which would then require an unsightly hem.

After weaving, the tartan is washed, stretched, and pinned out on the finisher’s table using tiny tenterhooks to stabilise the fabric at the correct width. These pinholes will still be detectable on close inspection when new, but will close up over time. Once dried, it is pressed and steamed at high temperature to prevent further shrinkage, before a final inspection by skilled eyes.