What is tartan? What makes it unique?

A tartan (or sometimes ‘plaid’ in North America) is a specific type of patterned cloth that originated in Scotland and is associated with Scottish culture and heritage. It consists of criss-crossed horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colors, often woven in wool, and the pattern is created by weaving different colored threads together in a specific order to create a distinct design. In the past tartans were most often woven, but today they can be reproduced through printing or in many other ways!

Tartans are traditionally associated with specific Scottish clans or families, and different tartans are used to distinguish between different groups or communities. Traditionally, tartans were used for clothing and as a symbol of identity and belonging, with each clan having its own distinct tartan. Today, tartan patterns are still used in a wide range of contexts, from traditional kilts and other Scottish garments to modern fashion and home decor.

The Tartan pattern is made up of a series of intersecting vertical and horizontal stripes, creating a checked effect. The colors and thickness of the stripes can vary depending on the specific tartan design, with some tartans featuring only a few colors and others incorporating many different shades. The most well-known tartan design is likely the Royal Stewart Tartan, which is associated with the British royal family and features a bold red and green plaid pattern.

Each tartan is defined by its “sett“, a sequence of coloured lines called its “thread count“. A tartan’s thread count is normally (but not always) mirrored… i.e. 12 yellow, 16 red, 10 blue - 10 blue, 16 red, 12 yellow. And the same sequence is usually (but not always) woven both horizontally and vertically to produce the distinctive check pattern.

This simple principle allows literally millions of possible designs. Each design is unique, and can in principle be legally copyright. This is defined by its thread count. But since colour shades are involved, where one design becomes distinct from another is a matter of expert judgement with no absolute rules. This is usually arbitrated by bodies such as the Scottish Tartans Authority.

Each sett is traditionally given a name, associating it with a clan, family, organisation, locality, or other body. Bodies can have more than one tartan, due to historical variations or different uses. It is important to understand that it is the sett (defined by its thread count) that defines a particular tartan.

Any sett can be woven in a variety of colourways (e.g. ancient or modern shades) which are open to interpretation by different weavers. A tartan can also be woven in different materials with their own characteristic sizes and colours. For example, the ’same’ tartan will have a much smaller pattern and brighter colours when woven in silk than when produced in heavy weight wool.