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Fabric weights, eg 13oz or Medium weight

by Dr Nick Fiddes

The weight of a fabric refers to how heavy or dense it is, typically measured in grams per square meter (GSM) or ounces per square yard (OSY). It is the measure of the amount of yarn or fibre that is used to make a particular fabric. The weight of a fabric is determined by several factors such as the type of fibre used, the thread count, and the thickness of the yarn.

Fabrics can have different weights depending on their intended use. For example, lightweight fabrics are usually used for summer clothing, while heavy fabrics are used for winter clothing. The weight of a fabric can also affect its drape, durability, and breathability. Most of our fabrics are described both with their ‘actual’ weight (e.g. 13oz) and their weight category (e.g. medium weight). These will be suitable for different purposes. If in doubt, just ask us.

There are multiple ways in which the weight of fabric can be measured. Some common fabric weights include:

  • Heavy weight: More than 350 GSM (10.5 OSY) or 16-19 oz
  • Medium weight: 150-350 GSM (4.5-10.5 OSY) or 11-15 oz
  • Light weight: 70-150 GSM (4.5 OSY) or 9-10 oz
  • Spring weight: 40-50 GSM (4.5-3 OSY) or 6-8 oz
  • Feather weight: under these

Understanding the weight of a fabric is important when choosing the right fabric for a particular project, as it can affect the overall appearance and performance of the final product.

Heavyweight

Heavyweight fabrics are typically thick and dense, and they offer more structure and support than lighter weight fabrics. Due to their weight and density, they can provide excellent insulation and warmth, making them a popular choice for winter clothing and outerwear. However, heavy fabrics can be more challenging to work with when tailoring garments, as they can be stiff and difficult to maneuver. Nonetheless, they hold pleats and fold well, creating a defined, structured look.

Medium weight

Medium weight fabrics offer versatility and can be used for a wide range of garments and applications. They provide a good balance between structure and drape, making them suitable for both tailored and flowing styles. Medium weight fabrics can provide some insulation and warmth, while still being lightweight enough to use for garments intended for milder weather. In terms of pleating, they can hold pleats well, while still having a natural flow and drape.

Lightweight

Lightweight fabrics are typically thin and airy, making them ideal for warmer weather and garments that require a soft, flowing drape. They are comfortable to wear against the skin and can be used for a variety of applications, from summer dresses to scarves and lightweight jackets. When tailoring garments, lightweight fabrics can be easier to handle and manipulate than heavier fabrics, making them a popular choice for detailed or intricate designs. In terms of pleating, lightweight fabrics can hold pleats and folds well, but the pleats may not be as defined or structured as those created with heavier fabrics.

Spring weight

Spring weight fabrics are ideal for transitional seasons, such as spring and fall, when temperatures can be unpredictable. They provide some insulation and warmth, without being too heavy or bulky. Spring weight fabrics can be used for a variety of garments, from jackets to dresses, and they typically have a soft, flowing drape. In terms of pleating, spring weight fabrics can hold pleats well, while still having a natural, relaxed look.

Featherweight

Featherweight fabrics are the lightest and airiest fabrics available, and they are typically used for summer clothing and accessories. They have a soft, flowing drape and are comfortable to wear in hot weather. When tailoring garments, featherweight fabrics can be challenging to work with due to their delicate nature, but they can create beautiful, flowing designs. In terms of pleating, featherweight fabrics can hold pleats and folds well, but the pleats may not be as defined or structured as those created with heavier fabrics. Silk is of course feather weight.

How the 'weights' are measured

The  Weight refers to its theoretical linear measurement. It is more useful to consider this a relative guide compared to other fabrics rather than an actual one.



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